Essex Road Islington winds through the heart of the borough like a timeline of London’s evolution, offering a fascinating glimpse into centuries of urban development. This historic thoroughfare stretches from the bustling triangle of Islington Green to Balls Pond Road, carrying with it stories of transformation from rural outskirts to metropolitan center. Every shopfront, pub facade, and architectural detail reveals another layer of north London’s rich heritage, making Essex Road not just a route through Islington, but a journey through time itself.
The Historical Evolution of Essex Road
Essex Road stands as one of Islington’s most ancient thoroughfares, with roots stretching back many centuries into London’s past. In the mid-18th century, the southern portion of what we now know as Essex Road went by a different name entirely – Lower Street – reflecting its geographical position on the eastern side of Islington Green, where the land dips noticeably lower than Upper Street to the west.
The northern section of today’s Essex Road was known as Newington Green Lane, aptly named as it led travelers toward Newington Green. This nomenclature reveals how streets were once primarily identified by their destinations rather than commemorative names.
The 1746 landscape surrounding Essex Road would be unrecognizable to modern Londoners. Where dense urban development now stands, open fields once stretched away from the road, particularly along its upper reaches. The lower section was distinguished by a scattering of substantial houses and coaching inns, serving travelers moving between London and points north.
A significant geographical feature intersected the road during this period – the New River, an artificial waterway bringing fresh water to London, crossed beneath the street in a purpose-built tunnel before continuing its journey toward New River Head further south.
London’s relentless expansion would soon transform this semi-rural landscape forever. By the close of the 19th century, Essex Road had assumed its current name, but the surrounding fields and grand houses had vanished beneath a complex network of streets, terraces, and commercial developments, creating the densely populated urban environment we recognize today.
Architectural Diversity Along Essex Road
One of Essex Road’s most striking characteristics is its architectural diversity, presenting a visual chronicle of how London’s buildings evolved over centuries. Unlike streets developed in a single period with uniform designs, Essex Road displays a fascinating patchwork of styles, heights, and periods.
Several structures along the street date back to the early 18th century, including a Grade II listed building that once housed John C. Aston & Sons, Wholesale Ironmongers and Builders Merchants. This imposing structure, now repurposed for modern retail, represents one of the oldest surviving buildings on Essex Road and would have appeared on the 1746 map when the area was still primarily rural.
Mid-Victorian terraces stand alongside Edwardian commercial developments, while early 20th-century purpose-built structures neighbor post-war reconstructions and modern interventions. This architectural medley resulted from centuries of piecemeal development, with buildings constructed, modified, and replaced according to the changing needs of the community.
Particularly notable are those residential terraces where front gardens were sacrificed to create commercial spaces as the street’s character transformed from primarily residential to a bustling commercial thoroughfare. These adaptations reflect how existing buildings were modified to serve growing local populations rather than being completely demolished and rebuilt.
Landmark Buildings: From Cinema to Library
Essex Road boasts several landmark buildings that have defined the street’s character for generations. Perhaps the most visually striking is the former Carlton Cinema, an architectural gem that opened its doors on September 1st, 1930. The building stands out dramatically from its neighbors thanks to its ornate Egyptian façade, designed by architect George Coles, likely inspired by the sensational discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922.
The Carlton offered Islington residents both films and live performances until 1962, when it was renamed the ABC. Ten years later, it ceased operating as a cinema and was converted into a Mecca Bingo Club, which continued operating until 2007. Today, the Grade II listed building serves as a place of worship for Resurrection Manifestations, demonstrating how significant buildings often find new purposes rather than facing demolition.
Another architectural treasure is the South Library, which has served the community since December 1916. The library’s foundation stone was laid in 1915, and a plaque inside reveals it was funded by Andrew Carnegie, the Scottish-American industrialist who financed numerous libraries worldwide. The building features a historical coat of arms displaying the heraldic symbols of Islington’s major historical landowners, including the Order of St John, George Colebrooke (Manor of Highbury owner), the Berners family, and Sir John Spencer (Manor of Canonbury owner).
Historic Pubs: The Social Heart of Essex Road
Essex Road has historically been defined by its remarkable concentration of public houses, many with histories stretching back centuries. These establishments served not just as places for refreshment but as community hubs, landmarks for directions, venues for inquests, and indicators of the street’s evolving social landscape.
The Kings (formerly King’s Head) represents one of the oldest continuously operating pubs on the street, with records of its existence dating back to July 1758. Historic newspapers reference the establishment when reporting the sudden death of “Mr Cupit, master of the King’s Head in the Lower-Street, Islington,” who “went to bed on Saturday Night seemingly in good Health, and ordered his Wedding Sheets to be put on his Bed, saying, as they were his Wedding Sheets, perhaps they might be his Dying Sheets.”
Nearby stands the Old Queen’s Head, an elegantly tiled Victorian pub whose predecessor appears in records from February 1748, when newspapers reported a violent attack on travelers “returning to Town” through “that part of Frog Field that leads to the Queen’s Head in the Lower Street.” The graphic account describes how one victim was assaulted with a “drawn Hanger” (a small sword) that “cut him down on the back Part of his Head, so as to let out his Brain,” a stark reminder of the dangers facing travelers in 18th-century London after nightfall.
Other notable establishments include the Winchester (previously the Market Tavern and Carved Red Lion), the Alpaca (formerly the New Rose and originally the Half Moon), and the Green Man, which opened in 1866 on the site of Islington’s first Congregationalist Chapel. The pub’s license application succeeded largely due to support from residents of the newly completed Peabody Buildings, whose “700 or 800 persons” formed the pub’s initial customer base.
Transport and Connectivity
Essex Road’s significance as a transport artery is underscored by Essex Road station, opened in February 1904 by the Great Northern and City Railway. The station represents a London anomaly as the only underground station operated by a rail company rather than Transport for London, with trains running to and from Moorgate in the City of London.
The junction with New North Road marks another important transportation development. Unlike ancient Essex Road, the New North Road is a relatively recent addition to London’s street network, constructed in the early 19th century to provide a more direct route between Shoreditch and what is now Highbury Corner.
Commercial Evolution and Community Businesses
The commercial character of Essex Road reflects both continuity and change. Some businesses represent remarkable longevity, such as W.G. Miller, Islington’s oldest family-run funeral directors, established in 1918 and still serving the community over a century later.
Other storefronts tell stories of commercial evolution, like the former Attenborough Jewellers with its traditional pawnbroker’s sign, and the fascinating transformation of John C. Aston’s 18th-century ironmongery business into a modern hair extensions shop. These transitions represent the constant commercial adaptation necessary for urban businesses to survive changing consumer needs and demographics.
Cultural Expressions and Community Identity
Beyond its buildings and businesses, Essex Road hosts various expressions of community identity and cultural significance. The Cumming Estate, named after Scottish brothers John and Alexander Cumming who developed much of Pentonville in the late 18th century, bears the coat of arms of the London County Council, connecting the street to broader London governance history.
More contemporary expressions include the mural of Gandhi by graffiti artist Gnasher at the entrance to Dibden Street, featuring the inspirational quote: “You must be the change you wish to see in the world.” Such artwork demonstrates how Essex Road continues to evolve as a canvas for community expression.
Essex Road Today: Heritage Amid Urban Vitality
Today’s Essex Road balances its rich historical heritage with the vibrant energy of contemporary urban life. The street continues to adapt to changing needs while preserving elements of its multilayered past. Historic pubs now serve craft beers alongside traditional ales, while Victorian commercial buildings house modern businesses ranging from independent cafés to international brands.
The street’s remarkable architectural diversity, historical landmarks, and centuries of stories embedded in its buildings make Essex Road far more than just a route through Islington. It stands as a living museum of urban development, where each doorway, façade, and alleyway invites curious explorers to discover another fragment of London’s ever-evolving story.